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What Should You Decide Before Painting Your Flat?

Five things: what each room is for, how light the walls should be, which finish each room gets, whether any switch or light is moving, and who works after the painter. Paint is the cheapest moment to change a wall, and the last one for years.

Keenan Pereira Mumbai 23 September 2026 10 min read Skip to the order of work
The real deadline

Paint does not just cover a wall, it closes it. Every switch position, every chase, every wire you might want later sits behind the finish coat. Moving one afterwards means dust, patching and a colour match that never quite matches. So the useful question is not which shade, it is what has to be settled before the first coat.

Most people plan a repaint around two things: the colour, and how many days the family has to live elsewhere. Both matter. Neither is the decision that costs money to reverse.

What does paint actually lock in?

Three things, and none of them is the colour.

Where the switches are. The plate positions you have now were decided by an electrician years ago, often before the furniture existed. A repaint is the one moment when moving a switch, adding a point behind the TV, or reducing six plates to one keypad costs patching you are already paying for.

What the ceiling can do. A cove, a profile channel or a driver in a fitting needs a route and a fitting depth. After the finish coat, that becomes a new job. Before it, it is part of the same job.

How the room reads. Wall colour is not only a look. It decides how much of your light comes back off the walls, which decides how bright the room feels at night with the same fittings.

Colour, by contrast, is the one thing you can change again in a weekend. It is worth thinking about last, not first.

Master bedroom on a warm evening scene, with wall lights either side of the bed and full-height curtains
Every light, switch and curtain track in this room had to be agreed before the walls were finished.

What kind of paint goes where?

Indian interiors usually involve four products, and they are not interchangeable. Knowing which is which is enough to read a quotation properly.

The four products in a typical Indian painting quotation.
Product What it is for Where it goes
PuttyFills and levels the plaster so the finish is smoothUnder everything, on new or repaired walls
PrimerSeals the surface and gives the paint something to holdOver the putty, before the colour
EmulsionThe water-based paint that carries the colourWalls and ceilings, interior grades indoors
EnamelA harder, usually solvent-based finishDoors, window grills, railings, joinery

Two things to ask for in writing, because they are where a cheap quote gets cheap: how many coats of each, and which Indian Standard the emulsion meets. A tin that names its IS number is telling you it is made to a published specification rather than to a price.

On the label itself, look for the lead declaration. India has regulated lead in household and decorative paints since 2016, and the limit recommended by the WHO and UNEP model law is 90 parts per million. In a home with small children, this is not a detail.

How light should the walls be?

There is an Indian number for this, and almost nobody quotes it. IS 3646 (Part 1) : 1992, the Bureau of Indian Standards code of practice for interior illumination, sets its lighting recommendations against a room where the ceiling reflects at least half the light that hits it and the walls reflect at least a quarter. In the code's own words, its curves "are valid for medium to bright room surface reflectances (ceiling reflectance of not less than 0.5 and wall reflectance of not less than 0.25)".

Translated into a painting decision:

What wall lightness does to a room, at the same number of fittings.
Choice What happens at night
Pale walls, pale ceilingLight bounces twice before it reaches you. The room feels bright for its wattage, and shadows are soft
One deep feature wallUsually fine. The other three surfaces still do the bouncing
A whole room in a deep colourThe same fittings read dimmer. It needs more light, or more places to put light, and that is a decision for now rather than later
A dark ceilingThe hardest of the four. The code asks for the ceiling to be the most reflective surface in the room, not the least

None of this makes a dark room wrong. It makes it a lighting decision as much as a colour one, which is exactly why it belongs in the conversation before the painter starts rather than after.

Why does the shade look different at home?

Because you saw it under a different light. The same standard defines colour rendering as the appearance of surface colours under one light source compared with their appearance under a reference source, and it groups lamps by colour appearance, from warm through intermediate to cold. A shade card under a showroom's cool white and the same card under your warm bedroom light are two different experiences of one colour.

Three habits fix most of it:

  • Test on the wall, not on the card. A patch big enough to see from across the room, on the wall that worries you.
  • Look at it at three times of day. Morning daylight, afternoon, and after dark with the lights you actually own.
  • Decide the light and the colour together. If the lighting can shift from warm to cool, the wall has to look right across that range, not at one setting.

Our guide to cool white against warm white covers what those numbers mean in an Indian home, room by room, and why your wall colour looks different at night is the long version of this section.

A living and dining room at dusk, lit by warm ceiling and accent lighting
The same wall colour at dusk and at noon is two colours. Both have to be acceptable.

What has to happen before the painter starts?

Anything that changes a wall. Once you separate wall work from surface work, the order picks itself.

Wall work against surface work, and where each belongs.
Stage What happens
Before any paintSwitch positions agreed. New points chased. A neutral run to any switch box that lacks one. Cove or profile routes decided. Curtain track fixing points settled
False ceiling closesLight drivers go into the fittings
After the first coatKeypads and plates go on, so the finish coat is not cut around them
Last, on a clean siteCurtain tracks and motors, once the dust has gone

That sequence is not a preference, it is the one AHA works to on every project, and the most common reason a project slips is not hardware, it is a site that is not ready: painting still going on, the false ceiling still open, or dust everywhere. Tell your painter and your automation consultant each other's dates and most of that disappears.

The one decision to make deliberately is the switch layout. A keypad replaces the plate you already have and uses the wiring already in the wall, so this is not a rewiring job. But if the plan is six scenes on one plate where there are three switches today, that is a decision the electrician needs before the wall is closed. Our electrical points checklist is the room-by-room version of that conversation.

What if the flat is already painted?

Then you have lost the cheap moment, not the option. The system is wireless: a driver sits inside each existing light fitting, an infrared controller brings the AC and TV in, curtain motors go onto tracks, and keypads reuse the existing switch plates and wiring. A single room can be done in a day, a full apartment in 3 to 5 days, and you can start with one room and add the rest later.

The exception is the neutral wire. A keypad needs a neutral at the switch box, and many older Indian switch loops do not have one, so an electrician runs it to that box before the keypad goes on. It is a small chase and a small patch, which is precisely why it is worth doing while the painter is still in the building. The detail is in do smart switches need a neutral wire, and home automation without breaking walls covers what a finished flat can take.

What will paint not fix?

A damp wall. Paint over seepage and the paint fails, not the damp. Find the source first, which in Mumbai usually means before the monsoon rather than after it.

A wall that is out of true. Putty levels a surface; it does not straighten a wall. Grazing light from a cove will show what is left, which is a finish decision covered in matte, satin or gloss.

Too few places to put light. A pale colour helps a room feel brighter, but it cannot invent a fitting that was never wired. That is why the lighting plan and the paint plan are the same conversation.

What do people ask us next?

What should you decide before painting a flat?

Five things, in this order: what each room is for, how light the walls should be, which finish each room gets, whether any switch or light position is moving, and who is coming after the painter. The first four are about the room. The fifth is about the calendar, and it is the one people skip.

How light should interior walls be?

India's lighting code, IS 3646 (Part 1) : 1992, works on the assumption that a ceiling reflects at least 50 per cent of the light falling on it and a wall at least 25 per cent. A dark feature wall is fine as a feature; a whole room in a deep colour needs more light fittings to feel the same as a pale one.

Which paint finish should each room have?

A flatter finish hides an uneven wall and suits bedrooms and living rooms, especially where light grazes along the surface from a cove. A sheen or semi-gloss wipes clean and suits kitchens, bathrooms, passages and any wall children reach. Doors and grills are usually enamel, which is a different product from the emulsion on your walls.

Should electrical work happen before or after painting?

Before. Anything that changes a wall, moving a switch, adding a point, running a neutral to a switch box, pulling a wire for a cove, belongs to the chase-and-patch stage, well before the finish coats. Keypads and fittings then go on after the first coat of paint, which is how the order runs on an AHA project.

Can you automate a flat that has just been painted?

Yes. The system is wireless, the light drivers sit inside the fittings you already have, and keypads reuse the existing switch plates and wiring, so nothing has to be opened up. The one exception is a keypad that needs a neutral wire at the switch box where there is none. That is wall work, and it is far cheaper before the paint than after.

What should you check on a tin of interior paint?

The Indian Standard number for the product type, the finish, the recoat interval, and the lead declaration on the label. India has regulated lead in household and decorative paints since 2016, and the limit recommended by the WHO and UNEP model law is 90 parts per million. If a tin will not tell you, choose one that does.

Does wall colour change how bright a room feels?

Yes, and more than most people expect. Light bounces off the walls and ceiling before it reaches your eye, so two rooms with identical fittings can feel very different if one is pale and one is deep. That is why the Indian lighting code sets its recommendations against minimum reflectance values for walls and ceilings.

How long after painting can the electrician work again?

On an AHA project the sequence is fixed rather than timed: light drivers go in after the false ceiling is closed, keypads go on after the first coat of paint, and curtain tracks go up last, on a site that is dust-free. Painting and dust are the most common reason a project slips, which is why the paint schedule and the automation schedule get agreed together.

The short version: decide the wall work before the wall closes. Colour you can change on a Sunday; a switch position you cannot. If the painter is booked, the lighting and switch conversation belongs in the same week, not the next project.

Bring your electrical plan to either experience centre, in Santacruz West or Lower Parel, and we will mark up what changes and what stays. Open 11am to 7pm (Santacruz West is closed on Tuesdays).

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